Jeb Dunnuck: 93-96 Points
Tasted as a barrel sample the 2023 Vistamare is lifted and packed with aromas of citrus zest along with a floral bouquet of concentrated key lime starfruit sea spray and loads of floral citrus blossom. Medium to full-bodied with a bit of white pepper spice it has a fresher more linear drive at this stage that should round and flesh out over time. When the Gaja family purchased their Bolgheri property in 1996 it was home to 10 hectares of vines planted to Sangiovese and Trebbiano. The rest of the land was dedicated to olive trees peach trees and cereal grains. Angelo Gaja was drawn to the region by several factors including its small size which he always looked for when seeking out denominations outside of their Piedmont home. The Bolgheri DOC had recently been established in 1994 with only 1300 hectares in total. A very different region from Piedmont Bolgheri has historically been land owned by noble people whereas Piedmont was a region of farmers. Thus the Tuscans were more connected to international travel and you find people with international names and sensibilities. Other differences include the incredibly varied soils with 27 different types identified due to the erosion from the Colline Metalifere. Additionally constant winds come through the region that help both with ventilation and temperature control of the vines. My tasting occurred at the Bolgheri winery in November of 2023. Readers will find many of the wines tasted here are parcel selections of that will not be produced on their own but rather will contribute to other cuvées. This is something I have come to appreciate and expect when visiting the Gaja estates across Italy and it?s a fascinating way to gather data points into their operations and thought process. Whether it's in the vineyard or in the winery the family and the team at Ca' Marcanda are consistently evolving to raise the bar with a measured and steady hand.
jd
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