Touring Vineyards, Talking Terroir & Tasting Vintages with WA’s Top ProducersFor me, it started over ten years ago: a fascination with a region that I had paid very little attention to previously. I still remember the day clearly, walking into one of my favorite wine stores to find that a large-scale tasting was going on in the middle of the store. Granted, even in those days, this type of tasting was never my cup of tea, yet something propelled me to jump in and grab a glass. There was no theme to this tasting, simply two large tables with multiple distributors pouring their wares for the store’s customers. I followed the format, starting at the beginning and working myself over to the next pour, one after another.
I stopped tasting immediately, removed myself from the horde of thirsty customers, found a salesperson, and bought a case.
The Best Way to Learn About a Wine Is from the SourceThe fact that it took this long for me to finally make it out to Washington State is amazing to me, but this year it finally happened.
Each of them displayed a unique style, while educating me about the diversity of terroir and vineyard management. However, each of them was, without a doubt, Washington wine before anything else. While many of the producers would say that they are closer to Bordeaux than Napa, which I believe has more to do with their structure and strong roots to the earth, to me, they’re not giving themselves enough credit. Like Something from a Fantasy Novel: The Missoula FloodsFor one thing, Washington State has an amazing, unique terroir, created by a series of cataclysmic floods over 12,000 years ago. We’re not talking
The Columbia Valley at a Glance
Then There Are the VintagesHot, Hot, Hotter, and then 2016! You can’t talk vintages in Washington without accepting one fact: it’s getting progressively warmer each year, yet you’d be amazed by what the region has turned out in 2013, 2014 and 2015. Being a fan of Old World reds, I’ve been trained to associate warm vintages with hot wines, yet that’s not what you’ll find here. Then there was 2016, which was the vintage most often talked about and tasted from bottle with producers on this trip. While the past vintages forged wines of intensity and power, the long and even summer months of 2016 created wines with classic lines, stimulating acidity, and gorgeous tannic complexity. I kid you not; they were so balanced that you’d be hard-pressed to save any for the cellar, yet the 2016s will mature beautifully–I can guarantee it. As for 2017, it was another scorcher, affected also by smoke coming up from the fires in California, which slowed ripening. That being said, I found a lot to like from what I tasted from barrel, even if they weren’t as exciting as the 2016s. On to the Tasting NotesGramercy CellarsGreg Harrington is the mastermind behind Gramercy Cellars, a project that has quickly gone from one man’s dream to an industry leader in the Gramercy Cellars Viognier 2018 – The nose showed fresh citrus, ripe stone fruits, dark florals and lifting minerality. On the palate, soft yet energetic textures flooded the senses, as brisk acids gave way to citrus-tinged stone fruits with a zing of minerals and hints of spiced florals that lasted throughout the finish. (90 points)
Gramercy Cellars Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge 2017 – The nose showed zesty red berries, peppery herbs, dried florals and lifting minerality. On the palate, I found soft textures, offset by tart red berries, with a peppery, herbal twang. The finish was medium in length, showing tart red fruits, blackberries, and lingering minerality. (91 points) Gramercy Cellars The Third Man Grenache 2016 – The nose was remarkably fresh and floral, showing ripe strawberry and zesty spices. On the Gramercy Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2016 – The ‘16 Syrah led off with a whiff of peppery herbs, giving way to exotic florals and young crushed blackberries. On the palate, I found a soft expression, with minerals and acids giving way to dark black fruits, in a slightly lean expression which turned spicier over time. The finish was long and spicy, with cheek-puckering acidity and lingering red fruits. I think this just needs a little time to settle down before it starts to provide some highly pleasurable drinking. (92 points) Gramercy Cellars Syrah Les Collines Vineyard 2016 – The nose showed a depth of dark red and black fruits, offset by exotic florals, smoke, pepper Gramercy Cellars Syrah Forgotten Hills 2016 – The nose was unexpectedly fresh, showing peppery herbs up front, with smoky spices and tart black fruits. On the palate, I found a feminine expression, with lean pepper-infused black fruits giving way to sweet spice and inner floral tones. The finish was medium in length, display saline-minerality and echoes of black fruits. (91 points) Gramercy Cellars Syrah The Deuce 2014 – Here I found a zesty expression of Syrah, as a mix of red and black fruits gave way to fresh peppery Gramercy Cellars Syrah Red Willow Vineyard 2016 – The nose showed dark fruits with lifting floral tones, giving way to moist earth, yet maintaining freshness through smoky minerality. On the palate, I found a zesty blend of black fruits and spices, in a very primary and energetic expression, which I found to be quite enjoyable. The finish was long, showing cool-toned black fruits, lingering minerality and hints of sweet spice. (94 points) Gramercy Cellars Syrah John Lewis 2016 – The nose showed a mix of fresh wild berry fruits, with smoky minerality expanding in the glass, then savory spice and earth tones. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by balanced acids and giving way to black fruits, tinged with savory herbs, minerals and inner smoke. Fine acids and tannins resonated on the long finish, as salty minerals and savory herbs tapered off to reveal dried black fruits. This is a gorgeous wine. (95 points) Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2016 – The nose was fresh, showing dark red fruits with dusty florals and hints of graphite. Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2016 – The nose was restrained at first, slowly opening up to reveal polished black fruits, with lifting florality and mineral tones. On the palate, I found a silky expression energized by vibrant acids, as saline-minerality and spice saturated the senses, leaving a coating of fine tannin in their wake. The finish was long, displaying a stain of black fruit on the palate, with resonating acidity, fine tannins and a lingering note of hard red candies. This is a wine in need of time in the cellar, but should be very pretty once its structure backs down through maturity. (92 points) Figgins EstateDo you know the name Chris Figgins? Well, you should, especially if you know the name Leonetti. Chris Figgins, the son of Leonetti’s founder Gary
Figgins Estate Red Wine 2015 – The nose was wonderfully dark and savory, showing a mix of black raspberry, cherry, blackberry, dusty minerals, and spice. On the palate, silky textures were firmed up by zesty spice, acids and tannin, accompanied by an intense wave of briary raspberry, cinnamon and saturating minerals. The finish was long and structured with cool-toned red and black fruits, inner florals and lingering minerality. What a zesty, structured yet already enjoyable vintage for Figgins. (94 points) Leonetti (And the Toil Oregon Project)Leonetti, Walla Walla’s first commercial winery founded in 1977, continues to strive for a classic, balanced style. With a constant eye on the future, and In my opinion, this is the benchmark estate of the region, and they set that mark high. Expect to find wines Leonetti Sangiovese 2016 – Here I found a display of crushed raspberry and cherry with dusty spices, minerals and dried florals. On the palate, soft textures were offset by zesty red berries, savory spices, and mouthwatering acidity. The finish was long, turning slightly darker in fruit profile, with spice and tannins pinching at the senses. This is so easy to like, and it really shows the best of both worlds, as you could have convinced me that I was in Italy. (93 points) Leonetti Merlot 2017 – The nose was dark and earthy, with red fruits first, giving way to hints of moist soil and blueberry skins. On the palate, I found Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 – The nose was dark yet zesty, showing woodland herbs against polished black fruits, dried florals, and sweet spices. On the palate, I found silky textures, offset by cool-toned acidity, as fresh black fruits enveloped the senses, washed clean by another burst of acid and saturating minerality, creating a wonderfully balanced expression. The finish was long, as saturating dark fruits and minerals gave way to sneaky tannins, leaving an impression of youth but also one of pure satisfaction. I love it when the hype is justified. (96 points) Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2016 – Here I found a mix of dark, herbal-infused fruit, with lifting mineral tones and sweet spice. On the Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 – The nose was dark, showing peppery herbs, dried orange, dusty spices and black fruits. On the palate, I found a silky expression, with cool-toned red fruits, minerals and dark inner floral tones, as unbelievably youthful tannins emerged. The finish was long, yet still quite structured for a wine of this maturity, with saturating red berries, spices and a contrast of mouthwatering acids versus fine tannin. (94 points) Leonetti Aglianico 2013 – The nose was dark and spicy, giving way to a smoky expression of dark earth, savory herbs, and black fruit. On the palate,
Toil Chardonnay 2018 – Here I found a restrained expression of yellow orchard fruits, lemony citrus and minerals. On the palate, soft textures gave way to citrus-tinged green apple in a caressing and easy-to-like expression of Chardonnay. The finish was long, turning a bit zesty through late-arriving acids, as inner florals and tart apple lingered on. (91 points) Quilceda CreekQuilceda Creek is the result of Alex Golitzin’s passion for winemaking, as he and his wife took a hobby that he pursued in his spare time, and grew it Quilceda Creek CVR Columbia Valley 2016 – The nose was spicy, with cool-toned dark fruits, wild herbs, hints of cedar and pine resin. On the palate, velvety textures were offset by zesty acids, sweet spice and slightly tart red berries, in an energetic and spicy expression. The finish was long, resonating of tart black berries, wild herbs, a twang of acid and savory spice. (92 points) Quilceda Creek Palengat Red Wine 2016 – The nose was spicy and fresh, with bright red berry fruits, sweet herbs, hints of violets, brown sugar, and cedar dust. On the palate. I found soft elegant textures complemented by purple floral-tinged dark red fruits, zesty spices and energizing acidity. The finish was long, showing blue and red fruits while coating the senses in purple florals and sweet spice, with a hint of lingering tannin that was nearly enveloped by the wine’s textural depth. (95 points) Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 – The nose was dark with wild herbs up front, followed by dark red fruits, savory spice, crushed stone and Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Galitzine Vineyard 2016 – The nose was intense, showing crushed raspberry and blackberry with spicy florals, crushed stone minerality, cedar, graphite, and hints of wild herbs. On the palate, I found silky, enveloping textures with a mix of blue and black fruits, firmed up by brisk acids and mounting tannin. The finish was wonderfully long, structured, yet still elegant, showing pretty ripe berries, plum, and with a staining of purple-tinged flowers across the senses. (96 points) Andrew Will (and Pollard)My tasting at Andrew Will included so much more than the two wines listed below, but without a pen, or an extra hand to type on my cell phone, I had However, it’s not just Chris who we have to thank for their diverse portfolio of Bordeaux blends, with Chris’s son Will taking over operations, and his daughter, brother, and even Robin Pollard (of Pollard Vineyards) also in the mix. At their home and winery on Vashon Island, you’ll find a family that grows their own food, tends their own livestock, makes their own bread, and also happens to be some of the best winemakers in Washington State. Andrew Will Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2014 – The nose was incredibly fresh and spicy, showing crushed blackberries, Andrew Will Two Blondes Yakima Valley 2014 – The nose on the two blondes was incredibly spicy at first, as it slowly blossomed in the glass to reveal a mix of dark red, black and blueberry fruits, complemented by sweet spice and hints of crushed stone minerality. On the palate, I found a refined and polished expression, seeming to put each foot right, as ripe dark fruits were ushered across the senses, leaving a coating of saline-minerals and spice. The finish was long, showing the wine’s hidden structure, as minerals and sweet herbal tones lingered on. (94 points) Pollard Vineyard Merlot 2017 – Here I found a remarkably pretty expression of Merlot, showing violet-tinged, ripe blue fruits, sweet herbs and dusty Pollard Vineyard Red Blend 2016 – The nose was spicy and exotic, showing a zesty mix of wildberry fruit, offset by a spitz of citrus and pretty floral tones. On the palate, I found silky textures, giving way to notes of blueberry jam and sweet spice, yet perfectly balanced and refined. The finish was long, resonating on ripe fruit with rounded tannins and a hint of minerality. This was so easy to like! (91 points) Credits and ResourcesArticle, Photos and Tasting Notes by Eric Guido Thank you to David Bowler Wine for organizing the trip and visits Visit the Figgins Family Wine Estates website for more info on Leonetti, Figgins and Toil Visit the Andrew Will Winery website Visit the Quilceda Creek website Visit The Gramercy Cellars website Visit the Doubleback Winery website View the Washington wine selection at Morrell Wine |
![]() |