Wine Advocate: 94 Points
Renoir's 2018 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Montants has turned out very well bursting with aromas of pear white flowers verbena buttery pastry and hazelnuts. Full-bodied broad and muscular its textural attack segues into a layered chalky mid-palate that remains quite elegant and fine-boned despite the inherent power of the vintage. The young Adrien Renoir took over this four-hectare domaine in Verzy a few years ago launching his eponymous label in 2019. Working exclusively with estate fruit he abandoned herbicides in 2015 and attained organic certification in 2020. Planting hedges and trees around and within his parcels he's a pioneer of agroforestry in his sector. In the cellar Renoir started out with one or two barrels and appreciating the results now vinifies everything in barrel maturing his reserve wines in oak foudres. Winemaking here is artisanal with ambient yeast fermentations lees stirring and no temperature control. The wines are disgorged with jetting but without any added sulfites and dosed with MCR (moût concentré et rectifié i.e. concentrated and rectified grape must). The style is vinous and gastronomic but with all the incisiveness that one expects from serious viticulture in terroirs such as these. Last year I characterized Renoir as one of Champagne's brightest young talents and these new releases only confirm that judgement. Published: Dec 14 2023
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