Wine Advocate: 93 Points
This east-facing higher-altitude site has performed brilliantly this year delivering a 2021 Montagny 1er Cru Le Mont Laurent that offers up aromas of spring flowers verbena white currants crisp pear and wet stones followed by a medium to full-bodied satiny and seamless palate that's ample fleshy and enveloping with lovely purity of fruit and a long saline finish. Bruno Lorenzon approached the 2021 vintage with the aspiration to as he puts it "optimize not compensate" attaining good maturities despite the challenging season and producing wines that transcended even the high expectations I habitually entertain for this estate's wines. The reds are pretty perfumed and charming in a more open middle-weight style than the "vins de garde" produced here in 2020 2019 and 2018 meaning that they will offer exceptional early approachability. So far so good; but the whites stand out even more as not merely a compelling performance in a difficult year but rather as some of the best that Lorenzon has produced to date. In their depth and density they show none of the vintage's stigmata; and their tension and finesse reflect all the positive attributes of a cooler year. Not content with expanding the parameters of the possible in Mercurey with his Montangy premiers crus Lorenzon is setting a new standard for another of Burgundy's most neglected appellations. Readers looking for more insight into this producer are directed to my feature article published in July 2021. Published: Oct 19 2023
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