Domaine Jean Marc Bouley - Volnay 1er Cru Clos Des Chenes 2017 (750ml)

 
WA
93
BH
89-92
V
90-92

Price: $145.00

Sale Price: $132.00

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Producer Domaine Jean Marc Bouley
Country France
Region Burgundy
Subregion Volnay
Varietal Pinot Noir
Vintage 2017
Sku 1303315
Size 750ml

Wine Advocate: 93 Points

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes delivers a lovely bouquet of sweet red berries orange rind rose hips and peonies. Medium to full-bodied deep and mineral it's concentrated and beautifully structurally refined its sappy core of fruit framed by powdery tannins. Bouley reflected that this only attained a peak fermentation temperature of 28 degrees Celsius but it held at that temperature for a long time. This is worth a special effort to seek out. As I wrote last year Thomas Bouley numbers among Volnay's ablest viticulturists and winemakers and this 8.5-hectare domaine numbers among the Côte de Beaune's finest. The rudiments of his approach in the cuverie and cellar are simple: for his terroirs that are richer in clay Bouley retains significant proportions of stems whereas stonier sites are largely or entirely destemmed. Macerations are comparatively long with temperature control only when deemed necessary. In the cellar the influence of new oak is minimal and the wines see two winters on the fine lees. The 2018s are full of promise: richer says Bouley than his 2009s but without such overt sucrosity of fruit; he finds them?and I agree?clearly differentiated by site and gaining in precision with élevage. As well as tasting the unfinished 2018s we also revisited Bouley's superb 2017s which were showing brilliantly bursting with sappy fruit. Sadly however after a theft from his cellar of 2200 bottles none of Bouley's 2017 Pommard Rugiens remained to be tasted.

Burghound: 89-92 Points

A brooding and almost surly nose reluctantly reveals notes of red currant plum earth and a hint of herbal tea that is trimmed in just enough wood to merit mentioning. As one would reasonably expect the broad-shouldered flavors are bigger richer and more powerful and possess evident muscularity on the austere serious and lingering finish that is oddly somewhat simple though that of course may well change over time.

Vinous: 90-92 Points

The 2017 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru includes 50% whole bunch fruit. It has a clean and precise bouquet quite tight at the moment with touches of chalk filtered through the red fruit. The palate is crisp and taut with fine tannin impressive mineralité. Not a powerful Clos des Chênes but certainly precise and lightly spiced on the finish. Good potential but this will need patience.

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