Alessandro Mori’s Il Marroneto estate is situated just north of town at 400 meters of altitude in a cooler, steeply-sloped microclimate with soils of pebble rich limestone and galestro that give wines of precision, finesse and elegance.
This highly traditional estate came into being out of the purchase of a property by Giuseppe Mori in 1974. Vines were planted at that time, but additional vines were planted in 1975 and 1977 and in the early 1980s. Guiseppe’s sons Alessandro and Andrea arrived in 1980 at the same time the first vintage Brunello was made, but wine was not really commercially produced until 1994, when Alessandro gave up his career as a lawyer to focus on winemaking full time.
Il Marroneto is a small estate from which three wines are made – a Rosso and a Brunello, both made from vineyards acquired in 1998 at about 250 meters, and the Madonna delle Grazie bottling, which comes from the original 1.6 hectare vineyard at higher altitude planted by Alessandro’s father in 1974 and named after the local eleventh century church.
Steadfastly old school in their production methods, with aging in large French and Slavonian oak casks, Il Marroneto’s Brunellos are built to last, with tannins that need some time to soften. Patience is rewarded, however, with wines that have sophisticated fruit profiles, real elegance and a brightness that reflects the vineyards’ cooler location north of the town.
The wines have an established following among those looking for traditionally made Brunellos.
A gorgeous offering this opens with enticing scents of ripe woodland berries blue flowers new leather and baking spice. On the elegantly structured savory palate taut polished tannins accompany raspberry compote ripe Marasca cherry star anise and crushed rosemary. It's already showing beautifully but will also offer years of fine sipping. Drink 2023?2029.
Alessandro Mori's Il Marroneto 2017 Brunello di Montalcino opens to a very distinguished and unique character that makes this wine easy to recognize in a lineup of Brunello. This hot and dry growing season made for more powerful aromas and sometimes riper flavors in the appellation generally speaking. But this magically lean-bodied wine follows its own path and the warmth of the summer seems to have cemented almost exotic aromas of bay leaf crushed flower campfire ash and iron ore. The wine is exceedingly silky and elegant but instead of opulence you get streamlined tension accompanied by lifted immediate aromas of fruit flowers and light spice.
The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with vibrancy and spunk showing woodland berries and herbs with crushed wet stone and undergrowth in an incredibly fresh and lively expression. Itâ€™s soft and pliant upon entry enveloping with its saturating raspberry fruits and inner spice as mineral tension builds giving way to sweet elegant tannins and inner florals. The 2017 shows a more slender yet well-muscled interpretation of the 2017 vintage but it remains remarkably pretty and balanced throughout. Due to the vintage conditions and severe selection production was down by 12%.