Groffier Is Now Nicolas Groffier Burgundy lovers take note. Domaine Robert Groffier is one estate that you need to put at the top of your wishlist. If you are a seasoned Burgundy collector and drinker, you need to realize that the wines of Groffier are night and day different from those pre-2010. This is where I wish more domaine labels changed with the handoff to the next generation. Nicolas Groffier has transformed Domaine Robert Groffier much like Charles Lachaux has transformed Arnoux-Lachaux and Pierre Duroche has transformed Domaine Duroche. The wines of the past are simply those of the past. "As I have written in recent reports, the stocky, tannic and rather over-extracted style that once discouraged me away from Groffier’s wines is long gone. Nicolas Groffier now produces much sleeker, silkier, refined wines that express their terroirs with far greater clarity." –Neal Martin, Vinous (2020) Today the wines of Nicolas Groffier are perfumed, well proportioned with great depth and smooth refined edges. The use of whole-cluster has increased at Groffier while the reliance on extraction and oak has gone away. We have been impressed with the recent vintages of Groffier and agree with Neal Martin’s assertion that this is one property to put back on everyone’s radar. Nicolas excels with Chambolle-Musigny harnessing the supple bright cherry aromatics and florality while keeping texture, weight and refinement all in place. 2019 and 2020 are exciting vintages at Groffier. The 2020s are pure class and all about showcasing the vineyard seamlessly in the glass. The 2019s, while super elegant, have a bit more heft and power to the wines, as one would expect based on the vintage. Yet both vintages hold the tensions in the wines perfectly poised, keeping them fresh, dynamic and loaded with promise. This is a set of wines that is sure to only explode with time in the cellar but is already showcasing the allure of great Burgundy already. Cheers, "This was another deeply impressive roster [2019 vintage] crowned by a stunningly regal Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze, a sumptuous yet intellectual Chambolles Les Amoureuses and a Bonnes-Mares that effortlessly disguises the 100% whole bunches. These wines were a joy to taste, though intuition tells me that they might close up after bottling and will warrant cellaring." –Neal Martin, Vinous (2020) "I have admired how Groffier’s wines have pursued elegance and terroir expression in recent years, and these 2020s demonstrated superb clarity and transparency. Only the Bourgogne Passetoutgrain left me feeling a bit wanting; the others, not least the exquisite pair of Chambolle Les Amoureuses and Bonnes-Mares, are outstanding." –Neal Martin, Vinous (2021) |
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