Clos Saint Jean - La Combes Des Fous Chateauneuf Du Pape 2020 (750ml)
Price: $127.00
| Producer | Clos Saint Jean |
| Country | France |
| Varietal | Chateauneuf du Pape |
| Vintage | 2020 |
| Sku | 172584 |
| Size | 750ml |
Jeb Dunnuck: 96 Points
In contrast to the bigger, richer Deus-Ex Machina, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Combe Des Fous is all about finesse and elegance, probably due to the inclusion of Cinsault and Vaccarese in the blend. Deeper ruby/purple-hued, it has an exotic perfume of both red and blue fruits, smoked game, spring flowers, and peppery herbs. Slightly darker fruited than past vintages were at this stage, it's medium to full-bodied on the palate, has gorgeous tannins, a layered, seamless mouthfeel, and a great finish. This beauty already offers incredible pleasure yet will evolve gracefully over the coming 15-20 years. The blend is 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and the rest Vaccarese and Cinsault, brought up mostly tank.
jdWine Spectator: 96 Points
Pumps out heady raspberry mulberry and blackberry compote notes that keep form and direction thanks to a roasted apple wood spine and flanking ganache garrigue and warm earth notes. Seriously grippy finish. Grenache Syrah Cinsault and Vaccarèse. Best from 2025 through 2040. ?J.M.
Wine Advocate: 94+ Points
The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous is an assemblage of 60% Grenache (planted in 1905 on sandy soils and typically raised in concrete) 20% Syrah 10% Cinsault and 10% Vaccarese (these are normally matured in oak). In 2020 this comes across as slightly smoky on the nose with plenty of black raspberry fruit but not as much nuance as this cuvée often exhibits. It's full-bodied and softly tannic with a mouthfeel that's deceptively airy and a long lingering finish so perhaps the bouquet was just going through an awkward phase. In both 2022 and 2023 I had a chance to sit and taste with Vincent Maurel and his nephew Valentin who recently completed his enological studies. The opportunity to compare and contrast the 2020 and 2021 vintages at this benchmark estate makes for compelling "work." Other members of the next generation are expected to join the business in the next several years with Vincent's son Hugo currently studying enology in Spain and his niece (Valentin's sister) Claire studying commerce. The future of this family estate of 48 hectares seems secure although as Vincent points out "The estate which arrived from my father grandfather and great-grandfather is not a cash machine." All of the various cuvées that emerge from the modern cellar in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are consistently excellent but the Maurel family seems to excel in difficult vintages. Perhaps it was just the different behaviors of the vintages post-bottling but I actually preferred the fragrance and perfumes of the 2021s at this domaine. Vincent Maurel described the year as marked by frost then being relatively cool and rainy resulting in more elegant softer wines. Most of the estate wasn't damaged by the frost (only about 10% according to Vincent) so it was a question of spraying regularly and staying on top of mildew pressure much like in 2018 or 2011. He seemed to prefer the 2020s saying "I love this year because all the different elements are in their place. The right balance you have the structure you have the maturity but you also have the freshness." Quantities of the 2022s will be very limited and some cuvées may not be bottled as much of the family's holding are in la Crau which was heavily impacted by the hailstorm that swept across that portion of the appellation on August 14. Fans may therefore want to buy up ample stocks of the 2020s and 2021s reviewed here. Published: Oct 12 2023
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