Price: $115.00
Sale Price: $105.00
Wine Advocate: 93 Points
Disgorged in March 2024 with four grams per liter dosage based on the 2018 vintage (50%) and complemented by a perpetual reserve component that dates back to 1988 the NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Réserve Oubliée goes through partial malolactic fermentation (as the rest of Péters wines) and is matured for about 18 months in a variety of vessels: large wooden casks stainless steel tanks and concrete (roughly one-third each) before aging under cork in the bottle. Péters observes and the wine confirms that long aging on the lees contributes to an aromatic range of complexity that evokes associations of maturation in barrels. Opening in the glass to reveal notes of baked bread toasted nuts vanilla pod and dried fruit it is harmonious and enveloping laden with vibrant acidity and marked by lip-puckering salinity. It?s a perfect blanc de blancs for enjoying now while laying down Les Chétillons in the cellar. Since 2007 the genial Rodolphe Péters has presided over this 20-hectare reference point in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger where Chardonnay shines at its most pure and chalky. Camille Péters began bottling his Champagnes himself in 1929 launching the house that today bears the name of his son Pierre. It was Camille Péters who acquired 2.5 hectares of vines in Les Chétillons in 1930. Today Péters?s vines are cultivated mostly in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger with the remainder in Oger Avize and Cramant. New vines are exclusively replanted using a massal selection of the estate?s best vines including Chétillon de Haut one of the two nursery vineyards where new budwood is sourced. Vinification is in stainless steel (with reserve wines being stored in steel large oak casks and concrete) with partial malolactic fermentation yet aging on the lees contributes texture and depth which means that while racy these wines are never austere. All wines undergo extensive sur lie aging prior to disgorgement (Rodolphe loves the autolytic character of Chardonnay derived from extended lees contact) and today Péters is delaying his releases slightly increasing to six and a half years sur lattes for his flagship Les Chétillons and Les Montjolys bottlings followed by a year on cork. The range begins with a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve which is floral and charming and the vintage-dated L?Esprit derived from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Avize Cramant and Oger. Then come two single-vineyard vintage cuvées from Le Mesnil: the elegantly austere and searingly chalky Les Chétillons and Les Montjolys a slightly rounder interpretation defined by higher percentages of clay. The range concludes with two premium multi-vintage blends: Réserve Oubliée heavily based on a perpetual blend dating back to 1988 and the excellent multifaceted L?Étonnant Monsieur Victor which unites the perpetual component with Les Chétillons in a single cuvée resulting in a wine with the complexity of mature Champagne combined with the energy of a young one. Overall Péters?s wines are markedly mineral-driven and laden with mouthwatering acidity sometimes elegantly tense in their youth which exemplifies the greatness of Chardonnay in the Côte de Blancs. These are some of the most age-worthy grower Champagnes coming out of the region and everyone who has had the chance to taste a mature bottle of Les Chétillons is well aware of just how good the Champagnes of Pierre Péters can be. Published: Dec 19 2024
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