Heidi and Russell Bevan run the Adversity estate out of Stockton in California, the name being a reflection of their conviction that vines grown in adverse environments will produce the most interesting fruit, with unique flavor profiles and textural qualities. It is a small family business.
The focus is on Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, but the selection is expanding each year.
The “Erba” bottling is Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the eastern portion of Atlas Peak, beside Pahlmeyer, on a steep and rugged slope. The wine is aged in 100% new oak. There is also a Syrah made from this vineyard.
The inky hued 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Erba Vineyard which includes 15% Petit Verdot comes all from Atlas Peak (next to Pahlmeyer) and was brought up in new barrels. It's loaded with bloody iron-laced blue fruits as well as notes of sage brush bouquet garni chocolate and crushed stone. Full-bodied seamless and beautifully pure with a big finish it's going to benefit from short-term bottle age and keep for 20 years.
Originating from a vineyard on Atlas Peak the 2019 Syrah Erba Vineyard is loaded with blueberries and sage with a hint of licorice. Unlike the Cabernets from Adversity which typically age in barriques from Taransaud and Darnajou this wine spent its élevage in Francois Frères and Gamba. It's full-bodied creamy textured and richly concentrated with a long vanilla-tinged finish. Adversity Cellars is the husband-and-wife label of Russell and Heidi Bevan. Sourcing fruit from some of the same vineyards he taps for his other labels Bevan has turned out a bevy of high-quality wines. We recently caught up in Tarrytown New York where he and Heidi presented a few bottled wines (already sold out at the winery) and representative samples of their 2021s still in barrel scheduled to be bottled this summer. For those unfamiliar with Bevan's winemaking style these are rich full-throttle red wines made from vineyards chosen/managed for lower-than-average yields picked at high levels of ripeness fermented using a yeast strain originally isolated from Williams Selyem and aged in high proportions of new French oak?Taransaud and Darnajou for the Bordeaux varieties. Somehow despite pushing the various elements to the max the wines emerge with a delicious sense of harmony and balance.